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Titanic talent
SPARKLING diamond earrings and bracelets set with gems? Gleaming rings of twisted silver? These are just some of the creations on show at Bijouterie Ravior, in Quatre-Bornes. This small jeweller?s shop is reputed for its unique and artistic jewels. Among the various pieces created from such materials as gold, silver, wood, coral or stone, the titanium collection stands out for its simplicity and originality. Thin bracelets made out of rods of metallic green, purple and blue titanium are subtly held together with gold rings.
?We are the only people to make titanium jewellery in Mauritius,? points out Ravi Jetshan, the designer and director. The metal, from the Greek word titanes meaning sons of earth, is as strong as steel but 45% lighter. In 2001, Ravi and his colleagues decided to make jewelry out of it. What is fascinating is the array of colours that can be produced by anodising. A specific voltage of electricity is applied to the metal, which suddenly takes on any colour of the rainbow, depending on the voltage. The metallic hues add an avant-garde touch to the jewelry.
At the rear of the showroom, six qualified craftsmen are busy working. One of them uses a burner to melt the metal. Once it is melted, he carefully pours it into a furrowed tray. The glowing liquid is then left to cool. The next step is to prepare the metal specifically for the piece of jewellery it will be used for. ?We have two hand machines used to make wires or plates.? The metal is placed between two close-fitting rollers with different sized furrows. The handle is then turned and the metal is pulled through until it comes out in the desired shape.
The craftsmen then work on it, following a detailed description of the design. They cut the plates into shape or bend the wires to produce the desired effect. They solder the gems on, or carve on the designs. One of them is working on a ring made of gold and titanium. Another is soldering the gems onto a thin necklace made of one piece of wire, curved into the shape of a question mark. Each person is careful to constantly brush any residue of metal onto a piece of cloth placed on his lap.
Once the piece is completed, it is placed in a machine where a revolving brush delicately polishes it. It is then cleaned with an ultra-sound device plunged in a little square container full of water. When activated, the machine sends out ultrasonic vibrations that detach any particles of dirt from the piece.
?For us it is not only the work that counts but its quality and the passion for it,? says Ravi, with a glow in his eyes. He confides that he had wanted to be an artist before taking over the jewelry shop. He has been able to integrate his artistic side into his job. He indeed loves it when people come to him with an idea for a piece of work and he creates it for them. ?I like it when the customer interacts with the making of his piece of jewelry.? Each piece is unique and he is always creating new concepts. ?The person can write the word he wants and we will integrate it into the jewel in his own handwriting.? Ravi also likes working by theme for new series; the latest one is inspired by the sun. A necklace stands out for its warm colours and eye-catching design. A network of circles with rods all around encrusted with deep red and orange gems. When you wear it, it forms a circle around your neck and it looks like the rays of many suns running down your body.
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