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?Carnaval? unmasked
When we look at political protests taking place in the streets of Europe or the USA, it?s hard not to notice the people wearing those big caricatural masks of their Heads of state. Who would have thought that those same masks are produced on our doorstep, in Mauritius?
From political leaders such as George Bush and Tony Blair to celebrities like Ali G, not forgetting Prince Charles and his dear Camilla, they?re all in Carnaval Ltd, a little factory in Saint-Antoine, which exports masks all over the world.
After hopping over puddles and going through the noisy factory, it?s a relief to sink into the chairs in George Lee?s air-conditioned office. He has been working for this firm for 24 years and, as Technical Manager , he proudly points out that ?over 1 million masks produced here are exported to the USA every year.? He goes on to explain how, in 1974, as a result of decentralisation in France, César, the parent company, set up a branch in Mauritius.
The sight through the large windows of his office is fascinating: the workers on the factory floor are methodically processing different types of masks. Some are standing in front of machines used to press the hard masks like Spiderman into shape. Others are painting the soft masks with sprays. It?s quite an odd sight to see someone spraying the collapsed face of Prince Charles with brown paint?
George Lee leads the way into the production room. The silent scene suddenly becomes overpowering with all the noises thrown in. The hissing of the machinery used for the hard masks, together with the clanking of metal work and the rhythmic cutting out of the edges of the masks is very evocative of Lars von Trier?s film, Dancer in the Dark. In the film, the noises of the factory blended with the music and the similar atmosphere here makes us feel that, at any moment, one of the sober-looking workers will break into song!
A closer look at the actual processing going on enlightens us as to how the masks are made. A sheet of PVC plastic is placed on top of a big square oven-like apparatus, and the lid is heavily pressed down. The machine lets out a loud hissing noise and gushes of gas. A mould stamps out the outline of the mask from beneath, and it is then sent to be cut out and painted. This type of mask, mainly for children, is rigid and covers only the face of the person wearing it.
Suddenly a bell rings? the immediate calm which descends is incredible: it?s the workers? break. We are able to hear George Lee?s voice properly again and he explains how ?this factory counts on the know-how of the workers to produce high-quality products? from raw materials imported from Europe and China.
At the back of the room, there is a most bizarre sight: rows and rows of colourful heads hanging off tall, vertical stands? it frankly looks like a scene from a horror film! These soft masks, which are cooked in an enormous, stinking oven, are skin colour when they are taken out. Slowly these faces come alive with a spray of black hair here and a touch of pink lipstick there. Then, they are placed to dry before being sent upstairs, where the finishing touches are added.
The atmosphere in the upstairs room is much more quiet. This is where the eyes and mouths of the masks are stamped out. A few workers are machine-sewing strands of fluorescent mauve hair onto the heads of some clown masks. The parallel rows of hair are stitched on with dexterity. Eyeing a table full of Venetian masks, George Lee explains how the two most important events that they produce for are Mardi Gras and Halloween.
It is unfortunate that here in Mauritius there is not much enthusiasm for street festivals. Imagine being able to dress up as one of our political leaders for a carnival?wouldn?t that be a laugh ?
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