Being on holiday for 12 days on an island, however small, is not enough to depict a complete and accurate picture of Rodriguan life. Yes, Rodrigues. But 12 days is far too long a stay. This is Rodrigues. ?You?ll get bored out of your mind.? ?There?s absolutely nothing to do there! Why would you go on holiday there??

For the first few days of my stay, I felt a bit like a Londoner in a small village, and certainly not because I was feeling bored. I viewed rather suspiciously people smiling, saying hi and chatting easily. Soon enough, I felt silly for being so guarded. Why should I after all? Every time we got out of the 2x4 (I?ve never seen so many) for some sightseeing, we left doors unlocked. Twenty years back, you would have left the house without locking any doors. Really. Sounds like heaven on earth. To me, it certainly felt like it.

Life in Rodrigues has certainly evolved since then but the feeling is still that of a small community. Every time I dared a shy half-smile, I was rewarded by warm open smiles that even the most amateur photographer would have been able to catch. There is an even stronger feeling that time moves slower there. Be patient while your driver stops the vehicle to chat to passers-by on the very few ?busy? streets that form the centre of town. By the way, I rarely heard any horns there?You won?t have the choice of a speedboat to Ile-aux- Cocos either. You might even be left at Ile-aux-Sables for a swim until the tide is high again.

So to access ?heaven?, leave behind any stress, any hurried steps to race against time. Leave behind daily obsessions of checking your email (you don?t have much choice anyway, although you will be luckier with using your mobile phone). Leave behind any clichés and other misconceptions you might have about the island. Go for a simple and pleasant weekend (there are no 5-star hotels yet) Forget nightclubs and other usual entertainment, walk leisurely in Port-Mathurin, take the bus, a taxi (2x4 again) if you must. Take in the breathtaking view on the way to Mourouk and enjoy the unusual sight of cattle on the beach there. On your bumpy and winding rides, feel privileged to be accompanied by goats walking in the middle of the road. Notice the local woman carrying a hen under her arm like a pet ? hmm, the evening meal? Be an early bird and go to the Saturday market to spend your money on handicraft and local products.

This year, if you want a real holiday or an affordable short break, book your next long weekend and enjoy at least a 3-day stay on the island. Life is simple, chilled and easy in Rodrigues. Maybe not so easy: water, vegetables and fresh products were not readily available at that time of the year. For products like yoghurt drinks, I?ve been told to wait until the next boat arrives!

Back home, everything took another perspective. I?ve never been so happy to see water flowing out of the tap, although I do feel guilty about it? Despite my materialistic streaks, I found very attractive the simple life there. Anyway, don?t take my word for it. Here?s a new year resolution for you: go to Rodrigues in 2007. Come back all relaxed. Not only will you have helped the local economy, you could even bring back with you more than the usual honey/chilli: a relaxed smile on your face, and a slight Rodriguan accent.

Sandrine KOA WING