Dolce & Gabbana’s golden throne and a surprise appearance by pop singer Victoria Beckham kicked off a week of men’s fashion in Milan, where designers struck a note of regal and romantic chic. On Tuesday, Gucci produced one of the week’s highs with tousle-haired models in sheer Victorian ruffle shirts, under riding coats paired with narrow trousers and sturdy boots. Feather collars added a bohemian detail to the sleek, predominantly black collection.

Italy’s Gucci, now owned by France’s Pinault Printemps Redoute, has identified menswear as a key area for growth along with high-margin sectors such as watches and jewellery. At Prada, urban crusaders walking to the beat of a thumping operatic remix wore trophy-like fur helmets and wool balaclavas reminiscent of chainmail hoods, under screens flashing images of parts of the medieval Bayeux tapestry. Miuccia Prada put herself at the top of the fashion pack with a collection of aristocratic collegial charm, with slim suits, pencil-thin trousers and oversized cardigans, livened up with animal-print raincoats and accessories.

“It’s the secret dream of men and boys – a bit of the olden days with many references to the past, in the heroic sense,” Prada said after her autumn/winter 2006 show late on Monday. For Dolce & Gabbana, who chose a crown as their symbol, the key word was power, with a show that put next winter’s man in low front-pleated trousers, belts with baroque buckles and velvet scarves tied around the neck. The duo finished off with a softer look at waistcoats, traditional tailcoats and a handful of show-stopping Napoleon-style brocade jackets.

But Versace – renowned for over-the-top glamour – said the real news next season was sobriety, after a summer of brash Miami chic. “I want a clean look – blue, black, bottle green. Lots of suits, even for casualwear,” said designer Donatella Versace. Men’s fashion week closes today with Giorgio Armani.

<B>Clara FERREIRA-MARQUES</B>