The Chinese characters of the clan names give an indication to the visitors of how the Chinese social structures are compartmentalised. The setting-up of different kwongs (the meeting-place of the Chinese shopkeepers) embellished the social and cultural landscape of Port Louis nestled in different parts of the town. Very often during the week-ends or the Chinese major festivals, the kwongs bubbled with activity till late at night with the clattering noise of mah-jong (the Chinese dominos) and the flapping of playing cards.

The Chinese Heritage Centre gives us glimpses of the social picture of those days. Locomotion in the early days evoked the rustic charm of the shops. An old bicycle, two baskets tied to a bamboo trunk and photos of oxen-carts, trains and Morris Minor taxi-cars fill us with nostalgia and we yearn for the good old days when Port Louis was quiet, peaceful and sinless, untouched by pollutions of all types, overcrowdedness and hawking business. Little does the younger generation realise when they drive in their brand new car that our grand parents cycled round the village to leave the goods of the customers at their doorsteps. The Chinese Shopkeepers have exerted a back breaking and soul searching job.

A large part of the history of Port Louis is bottled up in the Chinese Heritage Centre. The Chinese Chamber of Commerce where precious documents in its archives relating to Chinese Immigration have been destroyed was reduced to ashes. Photographs of devastating fires that have ravaged many historic buildings in China Town fill us with immense sadness and regret. ?Is Port Louis burning?? flashed into our minds on our visit to this section.

The Chinese Diaspora is closely linked with the numerous pagodas of the town about 14 in all. The pagodas have played a major role in the mental and cultural set-up of the Chinese. In spite of christianisation, the Chinese have not banished their blending Buddhist-Taoist-Confucianist soul from their hearts. These pagodas still attract many a devotee like magnet on festive occasions. They are a beehive where the Chinese can congregate and exchange views. They have stood the test of time.

The Chinese Press constitutes the vehicle of communication in this tiny community. An old press, donated by Mr Ng Kee Siong, the Editor of Weekly paper. The Mirror is on display. The Chinese press has played a vital role in the socio-economic development of the community by inculcating Confucianism which is at the base of our Chineseness.

The clue of the visit is no doubt the replica of a typical ?boutik sinois?. This section carries us to the distant past of the Chinese shop. Life in the village revolved round the shop. The shopkeeper played a multi-faceted role and has won the respect and affection of all the villagers with the exception of bad debtors in the locality with the credit-system. The traditional Chinese kitchen with its particular utensils transports us into the cloistered world of the shopkeeper and it provides us with an insight into the diverse Chinese Cuisine.

The Chinese Heritage Centre, the sanctuary of millenial Chinese culture, will pave the way to a better understanding among the different communities and will consolidate the ties of a multi-cultural society. We express our heartfelt thanks to the clan Fock for providing such a strategic location to the Chinese Heritage Centre. Hopefully, the younger generation will explore this part of history and identify themselves to the past of our forbears to combat the perils of rootlessness and self-alienation.

A visit to the Chinese Heritage Centre is a must if we want to delve into the Chinese Diaspora in Mauritius to have a bird?s eye view of the subject.

<B>Philip LI CHING HUM </B>